Mozambique

On arrival in Mozambique it was immediately evident that it was dramatically different to the modern world of South Africa. In the capital, Maputo, the streets were dirty and there was no hot water. Walking down the street it was obvious you were immediately approached by people that were trying to sell you something or wanting to marry you. Maputo was where I had turned down my first marriage proposal; yep I am a heart breaker alright :). Don't get me wrong the people were lovely and you could have alot of fun with them it is just poverty makes people a little pushy (i.e. waiting outside our restaurant all night trying to sell curios through the window). Not surprisingly really. The following day we had our first taste of Mozambique roads, which were dirt and very bumpy. But it was well worth it as it took us to Tofu beach. We stayed in cute little cabins right on the beautiful white sand beach. I signed up to go for a dive and lucky for me I joined a visiting dive club from Jo'burg, how where lovely and very welcoming. It was a good dive (well except for my constantly leaking mask) with good visibility, huge variety of fish (though not a lot of big fish) stonefish, fire fish, string rays with gorgeous electric blue spots on it (new to me) and most interestingly what I think was mantis shrimp. The Mantis shrimp has the amazing ability to strike its prey with blinding speed and strength.
Later in the day we went on a snorkel with the hope of seeing a whale shark. I was so lucky I not only saw a whale shark but got to swim with it in arms reach. It was funny when I first got in the water and saw it I was not that impressed. It was not until I swimming beside its head and it turned and looked at me with its tiny eyes and huge filter feeding mouth wide opened. From that moment on I was in complete awe and realised with a flick of its tail it could flick me away or out swim me in a moment. We actually had three sightings of whale sharks that day. I know on the first and the last occasion it was the same whale shark as there was a scar on its left side on the last gill. Yep, that is how close I was. Wow!! But our luck did not stop there that day. We also saw a medium size manta ray. Initially, I was a little confused when I saw it as it was white in colour, later I realised that it was swimming upside down. It was angelic as it glided through the water and magical to watch.

Our next stop was Vilanculos, which was the port for the Bazaruto Archipelago, a group of islands within the national park. We caught a local boat to the first island to snorkel. The reef was literally next to the island and you were dragged along by the current. I spent most of the time convincing and teach the others to snorkel. I got a real buzz out of getting those uncomfortable in the water to at least see what fascinates me. There was a greater variety of fish and I could numerous lobsters in the water. During our stay on the islands we had a feast of seafood. The barracuda was to die for and I was truly satisfied when the crab arrived. After dinner we where walking to where there was to be a bonfire and stop at the sound of music and peeped our heads into an opened hut. Inside there were twenty locals of all ages dancing, some even carrying babies as they were dancing. Before we knew it they had dragged us inside to join them. We had a ball. Later we all stood around the campfire clapping and singing while one of the locals played the drums. The locals would dance in the middle of the circle and then come dance in front of you. You where then expected to dance in the middle of the circle before choosing the next victim. I loved it!!! Later we danced to more modern music. They were all great dancers. I could not keep up. That was by for the best night out I had in Africa.
The following day we took along boat ride out to 2 mile reef, which I was promised would be superior to my previous snorkels and I was not disappointed. The tide was out and there was a lot about. The first new thing I was the ‘Crown of Throwns’ star fish, but luckily they were in quite low proportions. You had to be careful as there were numerous large jelly fish around. After quite a swim I came across a gorgeous young turtle feeding under a shelf of rock. I sat behind it watching and even yelling to others to come and have a look. When it finally realised it was there it stared me in the eye and neither of moved a muscle. In the next instance it was off at lightening speed. I was on such a high it drove me forwards. A little while later I saw a fast flicking movement in the corner of my eye. When I turned around I saw a small lone black tip reef shark. I freaked!!!!!!! I looked up and realised in my excitement I had been bloody foolish in that the boat was a very very very very very long way away and there were no longer any other snorkel’s close by. Worst of the entire shark was between me and the boat. I really started to panic, ironically, despite my life almost flashing before my eyes; I thought sharks can sense fear and this calmed down. The shark didn’t pay me any attention and soon swam away. It didn’t stop me from swimming at full throttle back to the boat and checking behind me every few seconds, just in case the shark had just gone to get his friends as they are not usually alone. Just as I was about to get back in the boat I saw a massive octopus that was changing colour as it moved from the red coral to the brown sea weed. Stunning!!!! I think it was the best snorkel I have ever been on for the number and diversity of creatures as I had also seen my favourite nudibranchs. We visited some small sand dunes and had a gorgeous boat ride back to Vilanculous, which we where joined by some wild dolphins for a while. Also, had a little boat trouble but still made it back in time for another beautiful dinner prepared by Pita.
The next few days were long drives on our way out of Mozambique.