Namibia

The first stop was Etocha national park. Etocha is actually the name of the large salt pan that dominates the middle of the park. The park is predominately dessert with sparse tree and yellow fine grass most of the area. The authorities have placed a number of water whole throughout the park. This makes Etocha particular special for safari drives, because the animals accumulate at the variety of water holes, therefore it is easy to spot a variety of animals in close proximity. It is intriguing the watch the hierarchy at the watering holes. During the day we came up to a water whole that was surrounded by hundreds of animals including impalas, kudu, ostriches, wild dogs, zebras, giraffes, wilder beast and others. Initially, we couldn’t figure out why they where not drinking then we noticed a pack of lions lie in the shade. It all made sense. One of the best things I experienced in Etocha was that the camp sights had flood lit waterholes that you could visit in during the night. We sat vigil for hours and saw elephant, giraffe, zebras, wild dogs, spotted hyenas and rhinos come and drink. On the first night a wild elephant came around to the fence side of the waterhole and was literally five meters away as it tore in to the reeds and drank and slashed the water around. Amazing!!!! The following night we actually saw two rhino fight. It was fast, furious and lots of grunting. On our last day in Etocha (and our last safari for the trip) we saw the illusive leopard. It was lying in the crook of a tree at quite a distance but it was definitely a leopard. I saw very happy to seen all of the big five.
We stopped at a cheetah farm where we got to pat tam cheetahs. Also, we saw ‘wild’ cheetahs be fed. They are beautiful animals but they are not as captivating as the lions.
We then went on to the once German settlement of Swakamund. Here I tried a few more adventure sports including sandboarding (which has made me determined to try sandboarding), lie down boarding (where I clocked some of the fastest speeds at 68 and 79 km/hr and coped a mouth full of sand) and quad biking on the dunes (which was my favourite). We also had a great night out where I got plenty of room (ie there was hardly anbody else on it) on the dance floor where I could strut my stuff all night. Obviously, I loved it.
The following day we made our way south to the Naughnaukt National Park (if anybody can help on the spelling please do). One morning we rose in the freezing cold beofre to climb a large dune and watch the sunrise. After more effort than should be legal at that time in the morning we reached the peaak of the dune just before sunrise. The landscape was stunning with the deep rich red of the sand, yellow of the grass, the mauve of the soil and the white clouds rolling into to cover the sunrise. There we are sitting on this freezing cold dune watching any chance of seeing the sunrise disappear. Luckily, there was a hot cup of breakfast waiting for us at the bottom that so we could smell our way back to the truck. :)
We also visited the fish canyon, which I think is second in size to the grand canyon. Again fantastic views and strange varieties of cacti and other flowers.

Now on to South Africa

Botswanna

On the next truck our guide and driver was Laban and the cook was Jake, who happened to be Pita’s brother. On the new truck there were 20 people and 17 of them had been travelling together for 6 to 9 weeks already, so the friendship groups where already well defined and where not going to change much to Emina’s and my disappointment. The first place we stopped was Chobe national park. The early morning safari we did was a little disappointing but the afternoon cruise certainly made up for it. We cruised the water ways that surrounded a number of small islands that are covered only in lush grass. The elephants and hippos particularly favour these grasses so with the boat we got to see many of them very close up. Along with crocodiles, numerous birds, lizards and we got to see the sleek Giraffe become terribly awkward as it drank. But to see the sunset would have been enough as it was truly stunning, especially with the silhouette of the elephants.
We went into the Okavango Delta on morkores that were driven by a pulla and ours (Emina and I) was Jona. He was a lovely young guy, but we didn’t share a language so communication was difficult. The Delta is a swam area. The water is like glass and crystal clear. Throughout the Delta are reeds and water lilies. Initially, we were very concerned about the boat tipping as it didn’t seem very stable, the clearance was minimal and the water was freezing. But we soon realised that Jona new what he was doing and the best we could do was lie back and enjoy the ride. It was so peaceful, so of course soon I was asleep.  It took a couple of hours to arrive at our remote campsite. We were being spoilt with tents being setup and the dishes washed. Pat was the character of the camp. He was one of the local (Bantu) guides who took us on a nature walk and treated us like we were school children repeating everything several times and testing us. I got so bored I didn’t hear a thing. At night Pat would tell long rambling stories, that didn’t make any sense but he and the locals thought was hilarious while we were left confused. I think there was something out in the bush that we missed that would have made it all make sense. 
We went on a game walk and had an elephant mock charge us, which was a little scary. One of the other groups also caused a stamped of zebras to charge straight for us, well until they saw us. It was beautiful to watch at quite a close range. Again the sunsets were gorgeous. It was amazing how dry and arid the land was not 20 meters from the Delta. The dependence that all leaving creatures are on water was very evident.
I also went for a scenic flight over the Delta. This is when I realised what a vast area it covers and the variety of colours. In the plane it actually looked like an abstract painting rather than a landscape. The orange of the land framed the deep blue/black of the water against the vivid green of the vegetation. Stunning!!! We also got to spot a variety of herds of game including water buffalo, elephants, zebra and more.

Next we off to Etocha in Namibia

Zimbabwe (home for Pita and Teddy) and Zambia

Our first real stop in Zim was at a farm called the ‘Antelope Park’. Here we got to a lion walk with three 18 month old lion cubs. There were two girls and a boy. On a number of occasions I went up to two of the cubs and when I was not looking the third cheeky girl would charge up behind me. Thank god for the keepers’ intervention. Part of the reason that she did this was because I was obviously scared of them. As they walked you could see the muscles rippling under there coats. You had to respect these magnificent creatures.
The following day we went for a horse riding safari. We didn’t see any of the big five, but we did see a lot of game and had a great ride. My horse Princess was little but gorgeous. That night Teddy made us the African staple none in South Africa as ‘pup’. It is made from corn meal and looks like mash potatoes but with a thicker consistency. You take a bit and roll it in your hand before dripping it into you stew. It doesn’t have a lot of flavour by itself but I really liked it. That night Pita sat us around the fire and told us about the African way of life. You are not allowed to date but still have to choose a wife, usually without really knowing them. The family does not find divorce an acceptable option. If you make a reasonable wage any extra money is used to support those in your family less fortunate. The male in the household makes the final decisions. It was very interesting, very different and definitely not the way for me.
We drove further north in the search of Rhino’s, which we found but still only at a long distance. Though we did see some ancient cave paintings that were bizarre and mind-boggling to think people stood in this same space throughout the last 50,000 years drawing and seeing what I was seeing.
The next stop was Victoria Falls. The falls themselves are stunning in their magnitude and if you want to get close enough to look at them on foot prepare to get wet. We were drenched in seconds from the back spray at the top of the falls.
In the evening I went on an elephant ride. My elephant, Tandia, was pregnant and due to give birth in only 3 months. It was a lovely safari ride but again we didn’t see many animals.
One night we went for a cruise on the Zambezi via the Zambia side, which ended in a drum session. Playing the drums was huge amount of fun, but my ability was sadly lacking.
I joined Emina, Wobbie, Kath and Forester in white water rafting the Zambezi form rapid 1 to 25 (excluding 9 which were just too crazy to ride). Forester our guide looked a little terrified when he realised he was getting us four girls as his crew. Most places you start on an easy rapid, like a grade two. But not on the Zambezi, you start on a grade 5, the highest rating for a commercial rapid. Forester was a little concerned when we could not even paddle our way into the first rapid. In our defence we didn’t actually realise that is what we wanted to do. It was such a buzz when we finally got in there and you could see these massive waves that you where heading straight for. On about rapid five I was literally flipped out of the boat. But I held on the safety rope and was pulled in fast so it was all OK. The boat behind us, with the boys in it, had flipped three times by rapid 14. Yep, we were feeling a little cocky until we hit the grade 5, rapid 15 called the washing machine. I thought we had made it through when suddenly there was a humongous wave in front of us. When I could see Wobbie, how was sitting in front of me, still in the boat but at the same time directly above me, I knew we where goners. I remember finding myself under the water, looking up seeing yellow, thinking I have to come up soon. In what seemed like minutes I waited then suddenly I popped up along way from the boat. I started to swim, but I felt completely useless against the current, as my strokes were getting me know where, but I suddenly found that I was not alone that Wobbie and Kath were with me. Forester through us a rope from the boat and pulled us over fast. He quickly pulled me and Wobbie in. Kath was stuck. I looked down stream and the next lot of rapids were almost upon us. With an extra hard heave Kath was in the boat, but Forester fell out backwards. Shit!!! We are in grade 3 rapids without the oars or a guide. So we just held on. Forester got himself back in. At the finish of that rapid we realised that we didn’t know where Emina was. She had taken a hit to the head and was picked up by the safety raft. It was relatively smooth sailing after that but we were all abit shaken and very tired by the end. But it was well worth it. What a rush!!!

The following day Emina and I had to say goodbye to our old truck crew and hello to the new crew.

Mozambique

On arrival in Mozambique it was immediately evident that it was dramatically different to the modern world of South Africa. In the capital, Maputo, the streets were dirty and there was no hot water. Walking down the street it was obvious you were immediately approached by people that were trying to sell you something or wanting to marry you. Maputo was where I had turned down my first marriage proposal; yep I am a heart breaker alright :). Don't get me wrong the people were lovely and you could have alot of fun with them it is just poverty makes people a little pushy (i.e. waiting outside our restaurant all night trying to sell curios through the window). Not surprisingly really. The following day we had our first taste of Mozambique roads, which were dirt and very bumpy. But it was well worth it as it took us to Tofu beach. We stayed in cute little cabins right on the beautiful white sand beach. I signed up to go for a dive and lucky for me I joined a visiting dive club from Jo'burg, how where lovely and very welcoming. It was a good dive (well except for my constantly leaking mask) with good visibility, huge variety of fish (though not a lot of big fish) stonefish, fire fish, string rays with gorgeous electric blue spots on it (new to me) and most interestingly what I think was mantis shrimp. The Mantis shrimp has the amazing ability to strike its prey with blinding speed and strength.
Later in the day we went on a snorkel with the hope of seeing a whale shark. I was so lucky I not only saw a whale shark but got to swim with it in arms reach. It was funny when I first got in the water and saw it I was not that impressed. It was not until I swimming beside its head and it turned and looked at me with its tiny eyes and huge filter feeding mouth wide opened. From that moment on I was in complete awe and realised with a flick of its tail it could flick me away or out swim me in a moment. We actually had three sightings of whale sharks that day. I know on the first and the last occasion it was the same whale shark as there was a scar on its left side on the last gill. Yep, that is how close I was. Wow!! But our luck did not stop there that day. We also saw a medium size manta ray. Initially, I was a little confused when I saw it as it was white in colour, later I realised that it was swimming upside down. It was angelic as it glided through the water and magical to watch.

Our next stop was Vilanculos, which was the port for the Bazaruto Archipelago, a group of islands within the national park. We caught a local boat to the first island to snorkel. The reef was literally next to the island and you were dragged along by the current. I spent most of the time convincing and teach the others to snorkel. I got a real buzz out of getting those uncomfortable in the water to at least see what fascinates me. There was a greater variety of fish and I could numerous lobsters in the water. During our stay on the islands we had a feast of seafood. The barracuda was to die for and I was truly satisfied when the crab arrived. After dinner we where walking to where there was to be a bonfire and stop at the sound of music and peeped our heads into an opened hut. Inside there were twenty locals of all ages dancing, some even carrying babies as they were dancing. Before we knew it they had dragged us inside to join them. We had a ball. Later we all stood around the campfire clapping and singing while one of the locals played the drums. The locals would dance in the middle of the circle and then come dance in front of you. You where then expected to dance in the middle of the circle before choosing the next victim. I loved it!!! Later we danced to more modern music. They were all great dancers. I could not keep up. That was by for the best night out I had in Africa.
The following day we took along boat ride out to 2 mile reef, which I was promised would be superior to my previous snorkels and I was not disappointed. The tide was out and there was a lot about. The first new thing I was the ‘Crown of Throwns’ star fish, but luckily they were in quite low proportions. You had to be careful as there were numerous large jelly fish around. After quite a swim I came across a gorgeous young turtle feeding under a shelf of rock. I sat behind it watching and even yelling to others to come and have a look. When it finally realised it was there it stared me in the eye and neither of moved a muscle. In the next instance it was off at lightening speed. I was on such a high it drove me forwards. A little while later I saw a fast flicking movement in the corner of my eye. When I turned around I saw a small lone black tip reef shark. I freaked!!!!!!! I looked up and realised in my excitement I had been bloody foolish in that the boat was a very very very very very long way away and there were no longer any other snorkel’s close by. Worst of the entire shark was between me and the boat. I really started to panic, ironically, despite my life almost flashing before my eyes; I thought sharks can sense fear and this calmed down. The shark didn’t pay me any attention and soon swam away. It didn’t stop me from swimming at full throttle back to the boat and checking behind me every few seconds, just in case the shark had just gone to get his friends as they are not usually alone. Just as I was about to get back in the boat I saw a massive octopus that was changing colour as it moved from the red coral to the brown sea weed. Stunning!!!! I think it was the best snorkel I have ever been on for the number and diversity of creatures as I had also seen my favourite nudibranchs. We visited some small sand dunes and had a gorgeous boat ride back to Vilanculous, which we where joined by some wild dolphins for a while. Also, had a little boat trouble but still made it back in time for another beautiful dinner prepared by Pita.
The next few days were long drives on our way out of Mozambique.

I am not dead!!! Just in Africa where the net is, well, frankly crap!!!

16th of July
I arrive in Jo'burg to the warm welcome of my step Uncle and Antie. It was lovely to be shown around town and have home cooked meals. Lindsey and Erica kindly took me to the Cradle of the Human kind, where we an amazing day. The Cradle of the human kind is a open area zoo where you drive your car through the enclosures. The one rule when driving through the carnivore enclosures is "DONT STOP THE CAR". On our way a narrow track in the lion enclosure we came across a traffic jam, where we had no choice but to stop. We suddenly realised that we where surrounded by a pack of lions. We started to get a little stressed at this point. In front of us was a ute and a large male lion attempted to jump into the tray, until the car took off into the bush to get around the traffic jam. Then the lions disappeared. Later we realised that this was the ute carrying the meat to feed the wild dogs and cheetas. A few minutes later we passed the pack of lions fighting over there food. Quite an awesome site. We also got to see the wild dogs and cheetas eat. The cheetas made the strangest high pitched short bark/meow sound when they were getting impatient waiting for all the cheetas turn up for dinner. Later in the day we where allowed to pat and play with lion cubs of 3 and 6 months old. They where truly like big kittens. They loved chasing the ball and would swipe at any momment, that made me a little weary consider their pores were as big as my hand. It was a great day as we also got to see, Rhinos, Zebras, Kudu, Ostriches and many other animals in very close proximity. It was sad to say good by to the Burn's family, but I was very excited about starting Southern highlights truck tour.
There where 9 in our group, with Pita our guide and Teddy (oops I mean Tedius) our driver. Our first day started at 6:30am, which was to set a pattern of cold early morning starts, and we stop at Kruger national park. Kruger was a beautiful park that had a thick scrub with Acacia's everywhere. This made it like where's Wally when trying to spot animals while on safari. Each time we spotted a new animal the entire truck was elated. We were looking for the big five and were able to see lions, elephants, water bufflo, a rhino (from a long way off) but not surprisingly no leopards. We also saw Kudu, Impalars, Crocodiles, Zebras, Baboons, Monkeys, , hippos numerous birds and Dikdiks. (For those with a filthy mid a Dikdik is a small dear like creature, sorry Brett your fish theory is incorrect I haven't seen one of those in a long time. :) ) I have seen so many documentaries but never really believed that I would see these animals in the flesh in their natural envionment. Wow, what a beginning!!!